New Vice Rig tutorial | dankung.com

New Vice Rig tutorial

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A PEBBLE SHOOTER TUTORIAL  
Making a pouch to band attachment jig with a vice screw mechanism  
Introduction (updated tutorial version following design changes)  
A vice (USA = vise) is normally used for the purpose of keeping materials in place securely  
between a set of “jaws” or other means to facilitate processing these with various tools. The freely  
rotating vice screw pushes or pulls back the “jaws” via a connection to a fixed non-rotating unit: the  
pulling motion is what is particularly useful for a slingshot pouch to band mounting jig.  
Essential tools (NB - all indicated dimensions are metric)  
Safety items: protection gloves, safety glasses, hearing protection plugs, dust protection mask.  
1. A ruler, a protractor, and a 90-degree angle tool.  
2. A power drill, a drill stand, a drill vice, and a jigsaw.  
3. A table mounted vice (US = vise)  
4. Drill bits for wood in the following sizes: 3, 4, 8, and 12 mm.  
5. Drill bits for metal (steel): 2 mm and 3 mm.  
6. A countersink drill bit for wood screws.  
7. A tap and die set (6 mm steel rod screw threads and tapping for a 4 mm screw section).  
8. A center punch for drilling metal.  
9. Metal and wood saws.  
10. Screwdrivers in various sizes.  
11. Nut wrenches.  
12. Wood rasp and files (flat and round).  
13. Metal file.  
14. Sandpaper and wood finishing substances.  
15. Other tools deemed appropriate for the project.  
Essential materials:  
1. A 20 x 30 cm sheet of Baltic birch plywood (18 mm minimum thickness or more).  
2. A section of beech wood 50 x 30 x 20 mm.  
3. 8 mm threaded steel rod (23 cm length).  
4. 6 mm stainless or carbon steel rod (two sections of 24 cm length each).  
5. 8 mm nuts and metal washers (2 unit of each).  
6. 6 mm nuts and metal washers (8 units of each).  
7. 1 Tee (T) nut (8 mm inner threading, 10 mm outer diameter).  
8. Steel cap nuts (4 units in 6 mm, 1 unit in 8 mm).  
9. 1 mechanical 4 mm screw.  
10. 2 wood screws (5 x 45 mm).  
11. Other accessories deemed appropriate for the project.  
1 – Band jig tutorial (updated) / Pebble Shooter / Slingshot Forum USA / September 2019  
A view of the completed jig  
Stage 1 – MAIN WOODWORK  
Measure, saw, and drill holes for the following structural elements as shown in the diagrams.  
2 – Band jig tutorial (updated) / Pebble Shooter / Slingshot Forum USA / September 2019  
Fixed mounting block A  
The vertical separation between the clamp holes and upper surface increases spring tension.  
3 – Band jig tutorial (updated) / Pebble Shooter / Slingshot Forum USA / September 2019  
Mobile mounting block B  
Fixed structural block C with an 8 mm T-nut (below)  
4 – Band jig tutorial (updated) / Pebble Shooter / Slingshot Forum USA / September 2019  
Stage 2 – METAL WORK AND THE VICE UNIT  
Use a metal saw to cut the following to the indicated lengths:  
8 mm diameter threaded steel rod:  
ü One section with a length of 23 cm.  
Ensure smooth ends using a metal file and sandpaper.  
6 mm smooth stainless or carbon steel rod: **  
ü Two sections with a length each of 24 cm.  
Using a tap and die set, cut a 3 cm long thread at both ends of both 6 mm steel rods sections.  
A. The vice (vise) rotation unit – a relatively simple mechanism:  
5 – Band jig tutorial (updated) / Pebble Shooter / Slingshot Forum USA / September 2019  
The jig vice mechanism – key parts and function  
Image A - the assembled unit.  
Image B – The 12 mm hole is where the end of the threaded rod rotates freely.  
6 – Band jig tutorial (updated) / Pebble Shooter / Slingshot Forum USA / September 2019  
Image C – The vice block unit is connected to block B via two 5 x 45 mm wood screws.  
Image D – The vice block unit attached to the sliding mounting block B  
7 – Band jig tutorial (updated) / Pebble Shooter / Slingshot Forum USA / September 2019  
Making the vice unit – please refer to the images for clarity  
1. Cut 1 section of beech wood (hard wood) with the following dimensions: 5 cm length, 3 cm  
width, and 2 cm thickness (see image A, page 6)  
2. Mark off the exact center of the wood section, and use a fine nail to prepare the drill hole.  
Using a power drill mounted in a drill stand:  
3. Place the wood section inside a drill vice, and drill a 12 mm hole to a depth of 10 mm, followed  
by a perforating 8 mm hole, continuing from the initial 12 mm hole (“necking down”).  
Objective: This will allow the 8 mm threaded steel rod section to rotate freely inside the 12 mm hole,  
while being held back by a 4 mm “stopper” screw section to be inserted at the very end of the 8 mm  
threaded rod (see step 6 below).  
4. Place a metal washer with an inner diameter of 8 mm and an outer diameter of 12 mm inside  
the 12 mm hole of the wood unit (image C, page 7).  
Objective: this will reduce friction as the “stopper” screw rotates inside the unit as mounting block B  
is pulled outwards under elastic tension (band ends) when the turning wheel of the jig is operated.  
5. Drill a 4 mm perforating hole on each side running parallel to the main 12 mm to 8 mm hole  
of the vice unit, which contains the rotating section of 8 mm threaded steel rod. Allow for at  
least 6 mm between the edge of the wood block and the 12 to 8 mm hole (image A, page 6)  
Objective: two 5 x 45 mm** long wood screws connect the vice unit with mounting block B (image  
D on page 7). (** wood screw length will depend on plywood thickness used).  
6. Drill a perpendicular 3 mm hole (image below) using a 3 mm metal drill bit through the end  
section of the 23 cm long section of 8 mm threaded steel rod (drill app. 3 mm from the tip).  
7. Using the tap and die set, cut 4 mm threading for a mechanical screw section inside this hole.  
Objective: the 4mm screw will stop the freely rotating 8 mm threaded rod section from falling out.  
Alternative method: insert a piece of 3 mm metal rod inside the hole with the help of glue.  
8 – Band jig tutorial (updated) / Pebble Shooter / Slingshot Forum USA / September 2019  
Final steps (vice): drill a non-perforating 12 to 8 mm hole in mounting block B, and insert an  
8 mm steel washer inside the 12 mm section of the hole to reduce friction. Align the vice block unit  
with this hole, and drill marking holes for the wood screws via the 4 mm holes in the vice block to  
ensure exact placement. Separate both units, and complete drilling of the 4 mm holes in mounting  
block B. Insert the 8 mm threaded steel rod with the 4 mm “stopper” screw in the vice block, check for  
free rotation, and attach the vice block unit to mounting block B (see images C and D on page 7).  
A. Assembly of the vice mechanism and testing  
Assemble the vice unit components as shown in the images. Ensure perfect alignment of the  
rotating threaded rod between mounting block B and the T-nut in structural block C. Start by sliding  
mounting block B on to the rails. NB- it helps to screw structural unit C on partially to the threaded 8  
mm rod via the 8 mm T-nut prior to connecting structural unit C to the 6 mm steel rod sliding rails.  
B. Assembly of the entire jig for testing prior to final steps  
Refer to the images below when assembling the various parts for the purpose of ensuring that the  
entire rig operates smoothly prior to total disassembly for sanding & varnishing (optional step).  
Adding the metal strengthening supports to the structure: place these as shown on the image  
below, and mark the center of the holes of these supports with a fine felt tip pen for drilling non-  
perforating 3 mm holes (4 mm wood screws). This will ensure accurate placement.  
Image 1 – the basic structure of the pouch to band mounting jig without the vice unit.  
9 – Band jig tutorial (updated) / Pebble Shooter / Slingshot Forum USA / September 2019  
Image 2 – the fully assembled jig: mounting block B slides freely on the 6 mm steel rods.  
Image 3 – the turning wheel to operate the vice mechanism (see making instructions page 11)  
10 – Band jig tutorial (updated) / Pebble Shooter / Slingshot Forum USA / September 2019  
C. Making the turning wheel for the vice mechanism (page 10)  
1. Using a compass, mark a 6 cm diameter circle on a piece of Birch plywood.  
2. Mark the center (the compass hole) of the circle for drilling.  
3. Drill an 8 mm hole in the center of the circle.  
4. Using a jigsaw to cut out the wood wheel and shape it using a wood rasp and file.  
5. Mark off lines at regular intervals on the side of the wood wheel (see image).  
6. Saw along each line to 1 mm depth, and then proceed with filing grooves to 4 mm depth.  
7. Screw an 8 mm nut on to the outer section of the 8 mm threaded rod, slide the wood wheel  
on to the rod, and then add an 8 mm cap nut. Tighten both 8 mm nuts to hold the wheel in  
place securely for it to rotate the vice mechanism.  
The Key advantages of this pouch to band mounting jig design:  
A. Progressive tension increase- The main advantage of the vice mechanism  
approach is a progressive and precise setting of tension on the band ends using a  
turning wheel that is perpendicular to the fixed and moving screw sections of the jig.  
B. Higher clamp spring tension - the vertical separation between the mounting block  
holes and the upper surface of each mounting block unit increases spring tension  
(pressure) of the clamps, thus ensuring that both the pouch and the band ends to be  
connected are held in place very securely. The mounting block holes (“windows” in  
mounting blocks A and mobile block B) allow for a very precise placement of the pouch  
and band ends to ensure perfectly aligned pouches for either over-the-top (OTT) or  
“through the forks” slingshot styles.  
A set of spring-operated clamps (hardware store) needs to be purchased, as these  
are inserted inside the mounting block holes to hold the pouch and band end in place.  
FINAL PAGE – your comments and constructive criticism about this tutorial are welcome.  
Your notes:  
11 – Band jig tutorial (updated) / Pebble Shooter / Slingshot Forum USA / September 2019  


Thu, 01/02/2020 - 05:59
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Slingshot bands & shooting skills
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